Monday, April 24, 2017

Nore dress and shirt

Today, Compagnie M* released the Nore dress and top*. Usually, Compagnie M patterns key words are "contrasting lines (color block)", pockets and woven fabrics. Two of those words are totally me, except the last one. My go to fabric is jersey, but for Compagnie M I love to make an exception. This time I did not have to comprise anything, because the newest pattern is for jersey fabrics.

During testing I made a Nore dress for my youngest. I am sure I probably had seen this obvious fabric combi somewhere else before, but I do not remember where. When I picked the stripes I did not immediately realize that they gave me an extra challenge. Having striped fabric for the sleeves meant stripe matching, but fortunately, I did realize before cutting. I bought the cats at Joyfits during the fall.

This is a surprisingly quick sew. It looks very sophisticated, I therefore feared that the color block would really slow me down, but it did not.  I think I can cut and sew one of these dresses in under an hour (keep in mind that I am a jersey junkie), which is really my kind of project. You will have to sew that color block with your sewing machine. Matching that up with a serger will be almost impossible. But the sides, neckband and sleeves can be finished with a serger, and you will need your regular machine for hemming anyway.

My test dress has color blocking on both the front and the back, but you can choose to have it only on one side or just go with a plain, super quick version. During testing, Marte came up with another type of color blocking. She did split back on the back, I really love it. You might not have noticed but the sleeves are finished with a band that is folded up. the the blog posts that Marte posted you can see more detailed pictures of the pretty finish.

Two days ago, I showed you the Kingsday dress that I sewed my eldest. Now, I can also show you want I sewed my son. I hacked the Nore shirt into a boy version. The original Nore has an apple shape, so it is round at the waist. I simply drew a straight line down from the armpit to take out the curve. If I would have followed the color block lines from the width size that I made, the color block would have been very narrow at the sides and the pockets would be too low. I therefore used the color block lines of a few sizes smaller, so I simply followed a different line (I used the pattern pieces without included seam allowance). I did re-drafted the pockets on the inside a bit, to make them a bit bigger (else they would have been the baby size (18m)

The Nore* is now available in the Compagnie M webshop*. With the code LETSDOTHENORE you get a 10% discount on the pattern. The code is valid till the 14th of May. Feel free to leave a comment in the language you prefer (although Google translate might have to assist me if you choose something different than English, German, Dutch or Hungarian). If you buy anything through my affiliate links (*), I get a small commission (the price stays the same for you), I am very grateful for everything that feeds my fabric addiction.

Friday, April 21, 2017

Mantica release

Today, Sofilantjes* releases the Mantica* tunic and dress pattern. The pattern has two different skirt styles, either tight and short or gathered and knee length. The back has three different color block options, which I of course tried all. The front stands out because of the contrasting bands, they might remind you of backpack straps, which is where the name Mantica (meaning bag in Latin) comes from.

The short skirt has a secret feature, the entire front of the skirt is pocket. Yes, one gigantic pocket, my daughter did not realize it when we made pictures, or else she would have for sure filled it with Lego's just to see how much she was able to fit in there.  Two of these fabrics where bought at Joyfits (the Kersenpitje combi) and the blue triangles from Lillestoff were bought at Cas and Nina*.

On all my three Mantica's I used eyelets with a cord (only though the front), but you could also leave the eyelets off of course. Just having a contrasting waistband is also cool. On the pre-test version (the last one in this post), I used the 4 mm from Prym, but they are a bit too small. On the other two versions, I used the 8 mm from Prym and those are great. I bought them at textielstad. On this blue dress I blended with a bit too tall size, the back therefore has a wrinkle, I fixed that on the orange one.

The gathered skirt version also has pockets, side seam pockets. I made this orange version for Kingsday, which will be next week. My daughter already told me that she is not going to leave it in the closet until next year or some soccer occasion, she loves it and will wear it like any other dress, and I believe her. I bought these two fabrics at Textielstad. My son was the perfect accessories, I will show you next week what he is wearing in the picture.

For the pre-test, I sewed a dress for my youngest. The pattern turned out pretty perfect already, it only was a bit short for the smaller sizes. The pattern pieces were lengthened and I lengthened the dress with a contrasting band, now it is no longer a short skirt by the way, but this way she can wear it the entire summer. This fabric also came from Joyfits. I bought 2 meter and my girls where fighting over it, so you will see more of this one for sure.

Normally I would have much more to tell you. The pattern is great, fit is perfect and I already see many possibilities of matching it with other Sofilantjes patterns (the widths might be a bit different, so you will have to adjust that), but I keep it short today. When this post goes live, I am actually not in the country, my husband and me are on a trip, for the first time in 10 years, we are away together for two nights, and I still have to pack a bit.

As usual there is a sweet but short release deal, the pattern* is 5 dollar (excluding VAT) for 48 hours in the Sofilantjes* web shop. Feel free to leave a comment in the language you prefer (although Google translate might have to assist me if you choose something different than English, German, Dutch or Hungarian). If you buy anything through my affiliate links (*), I get a small commission (the price stays the same for you), I am very grateful for everything that feeds my fabric addiction.

Saturday, April 15, 2017

Kamaria top, dress and sunsuit

The woman who designed these dresses and these trousers has started her own pattern label and today I am showing you the first pattern released under Sansahash. With the Kamaria pattern you can sew a sunsuit, a dress and a top and you can have them with gathered waist or paperbag waist, so a pattern with many possibilities.

All variations in the pattern have the front pleat with a subtle V neckline and neck straps. During testing I sewed two sunsuits and a top. As usual, let's start with the  one I sewed last, the garment sewed with the final pattern, this blue with white flowers. This last version I made is without pockets, but the sunsuit has pockets that are perfect for color block, in the first sunsuit I did put pockets, but I did not use a contrasting fabric for them.

The pattern includes instructions how to make woven straps the easy way, so no pulling though a very small tube. For the top I used alternative straps, I used my crochet yarn to make a cord. The Soft Cactus remnant from making this dress was the perfect canvas for this quick sew. The pattern includes a dress option, one with elastic in the waist like the sunsuit. Simply lengthening the top pattern piece would also give a very nice dress I think.

For the first sunsuit that I sewed, I used two of my most treasured scraps, I still have a weak spot for gold elements. My daughter apparently had a growth spurt the last weeks because she turned out to be 2 centimeter taller than the last time I measured. This first version is therefore a size smaller than I should have used, and the pattern got lengthened during testing, so the trouser part of this version are much shorter than the final version. The pattern instructs you to first make the trousers and than sew it to the top. So, with just a little bit of creativity you can use this pattern to make a stand-alone bubble shorts.

So, besides the versions that I showed you, the pattern also includes instructions on the earlier mentioned dress option, a snap crotch and versions with a paper bag ruffle in the waist. The pattern is on sale for just $5 dollar up until Easter Sunday, so if you are still wondering how to spend that day, this is a nice filler.

Friday, April 14, 2017

Pink, pink and glitter

For my third sew as member of the One Thimble* Zest team I sewed a Loli* dress (by Bobkin) and a Gypsy shrug (by Tadah patterns) and adjusted the patterns here and there a bit.The Loli dress is from issue 14* and the Gypsy shrug is from issue 2*. The Loli is a summer dress with several views due to variety in tying and closure methods. I wanted the dress to be comfortable with shrug, I therefore chose a tie method that is not in the pattern. I changed the shrug such that it is a super quick sew.

All the official Loli view have a knot on the shoulders, and I feared that would not be comfortable with a shrug on top. I therefore just fixed the ties in the bodice on both sides. I sewed them into the back bodice and sewed the front such that I left two holes for the front straps. This way I could fit it on my daughter and determine the optimal length. In my night cutting session mixed up something ad my elastic casting piece is longer than it should have been, that means there are a bit more ruffling on the back bodice that you would usually have. I recently restocked this pink See you at Six fabric at Cas en Nina, I just love that rayon.

For the shrug I used one of my recent fabric founds at Textielstad. It is a faux leather feel, super soft on both sides. It is pink and it has glitters so there were many possible receivers in our household. It is the type of fabric where my kids ask me to be allowed to have the cutting scraps because they love to pet it. I have bought this type of fake leather before and my experience was that washing it in the washing machine on 40 degrees (our usual washing behavior) takes away a part of the magical softness. A shrug is a piece of clothing that will hopefully requires less washing than usual and it is small, so I have plenty left for more projects. I had been planning to make a reversible shrug, but due to the softness of the fabric's backside, I decided to not line it. I cut the sleeves a bit narrower on the bottom, to have a more traditional sleeve. The fabric does not fray, so I left the edges unfinished.

Besides patterns, One thimbles also contain all kind of articles. Issue 14 contains an article on how to cover a plastic snap with fabric. I knew my daughter would want a closure, because she wanted one on this one as well (so I added one later). On thin, one layers fabrics you should not use a plastic Kam snap, but you can use those metal ones from Prym, they are perfect for jersey fabrics (you still have to be careful when opening). Inspired by the article on plastic snap coverage, I tried to cover such a Prym snap and it worked. It is not perfectly round, but I am very satisfied. I only had white and metal colored rings, so covered like this it is the perfect subtle closure.

Feel free to leave a comment in the language you prefer (although Google translate might have to assist me if you choose something different than English, German, Dutch or Hungarian). If you buy anything through my affiliate links (*), I get a small commission (the price stays the same for you), I am very grateful for everything that feeds my fabric addiction.